This isn’t really a tutorial kinda thing, but I thought it would be cool to see :P
When you sew seams you should always give them a good press/iron! It makes a huge load of difference. You should iron your cosplays in general :P
So this is my lovely sewn hem!! It’s a curved rolled hem (: This effect here is called roping, which is really ugly. In fact I’m so bad at these kind of hems I was thinking while sewing: “FUCK YOU I’M JUST GOING TO CUT THIS UGLY HEM OFF AND FIND SOME OTHER WAY” I was rather mad.
But I thought I might as well try ironing it first.
And this is the same rolled hem. Ironed. ALWAYS IRON YOUR HEMS, COSPLAYERS. Makes your cosplay look that much better (:
I remember Sylvie did a similar thing but I couldn’t find it but she gave me the idea for this (:
So now that I’ve finished my course I said I’d make some tutorials!
I thought I’d start with some really basic stuff, which is mostly either common knowledge or easy to pick up yourself, etc. But for beginner sewers it might help!
So I’m going to cover edge stitching, top stitching and understitching. Edge stitching and top stitching are pretty obvious - a lot of clothing has this kind of stitching and is on the outside of garments. Understitching isn’t as obvious, I think. I never knew what it was when I was self taught! It’s pretty much stitching on the under side of garments which helps lining to not roll towards the outside and become visible (like on pockets and vest lining, etc).
I think I’ll start with talking about machine feet, as it was an issue for me. I trained on an industrial sewing machine which has a different kind of foot that makes it easy to sew with. Domestic machines come with something similar.
On the left is the machine foot that I personally think is best and easiest to use - industrials have one like this but with a smaller gap. On the right is some weird foot sewing machines come with anyway. I’m a bit retarded and only realised I had the one on the left AFTER I sewed on several meters of bias onto a shirt while using my eye to keep straight rather than the food edge, haha. The reason is that it’s easier to see where the needle is and you can line your fabric up with the side of the foot!
And starting with edge stitching. On a seam, put the seam allowances under the side where the needle is - so on the left side of this example. And line the seam up with the food edge and position the needle about 1mm onto the edge (this is for domestics where you can move the needle position, industrials you can line the foot up and the foot gap is the perfect space for edge stitching). While sewing pull the left side of the fabric/side you’re stitching on slightly so that it’s getting stitched on flat and not stitching down too much fabric. Sweeping it outwards, not up or down, etc.
Next is top stitching! You can see my edge stitching in the picture and then 5mm to the left of it is top stitching. So move your needle over! I worked out my foot’s gap is made to be the perfect space for this (industrials have the outer edge of the foot as the perfect space). And just stitch down the same as before with the foot lined up with the fabric. And again, ‘sweep’ the fabric to the left to make it lie flat. If you move it up too much or down too much you’ll cause the effect of roping, which is when the fabric looks a bit twisted and funny.
I’m not sure about domestics, but industrial machines you can edge and top stitch on either side of the foot, so it’s just up to personal preference on what side you do it on. This stitching can be used on seams where ever you want it to have effect! For instance, jeans quite often have edge and top stitching on the inside leg seam, which also gives it a bit more strength.
Ta-da! I nice edge and top stitched seam! I’m not sure if my stitching was wonky or my fabric was just bumpy, haha. (I’m still getting used to this on a domestic machine).
Now for some understitching!
I’ve decided to make the ‘lining’ pink fabric to make it more obvious about how to do it. Once again, have the seam allowance underneath the side you are stitching on top of (it’s more important for understitching). Then do the exact same thing as edge stitching! They are very similar but the difference is that understitching is used on the underside of things, where you can’t see it. Like a collar where you want it to stay flat and the edges in the right place but don’t want the stitching visible on the outside (although it’s common on collars). It holds the fabric in place!
See like this! Pretend this is the bottom hem of a vest or coat, etc. It’s the bottom, the lining won’t roll to be visible and it sits nice and flat.
This kind of stitching can also be used on faced necklines and arm holes (when sleeveless) when you don’t want the stitching to show.
And this is what the underside/lining looks like! A nice little neat stitched line that holds everything in place (: I tried taking a close up picture but my camera was being a dick and wouldn’t focus.
If you have any questions, please ask! I will do my best to help! I’m pretty bad at explaining things :P
Or if there’s anything to do with sewing that you want help with also ask! I need more ideas for tutorials! I can also pattern make, so if you have a pattern related question, ask away! I was thinking of doing tutorials like dart moving on bodices and such or how to change designs on commercial patterns, because I know a lot of cosplay involves this sort of thing, hahaha.
Mawaru Penguindrum cosplay! From Wellington Armageddon this year (:
Me as Himari and Shannon/Noo-chan as er, stalker chick. Forgot her name 8Db
I couldn’t find fabric that was like her shirt so I had to make bias and individually sew it on P:
Progress pictures from when I made my Princess Peach costume this year! I have mixed feelings about this costume, hahaha.
Love my blinged out crown though. First time using worbla, which is really cool. I want to make a set of armour with it one day P:
It’s been quite a while since I’ve updated, whoops.
I’ve just been really busy with life so I haven’t had much time to make cosplay which is why there’s been a lack of updates :P
Last year from July-December I did an industry standard sewing course and then January-June this year I did a pattern making course. And since February I’ve been working part time at my local supermarket. So I’ve a full time course and a part time job taking up most of my time. It’s amazing I still managed to even make costumes for Wellington Armageddon.
But now that I’ve graduated I’ve got heaps of free time to actually update and sew and make costumes! :D Because I’m thinking of starting commissions (mostly because I really enjoy sewing and if I make stuff for other people it’s making stuff I wouldn’t make for myself??)
So I figure I should properly update my tumblr so people know what costuming stuff I’m up to and then people interested in my work can see examples of it! I need to make a few examples though because I haven’t got much stuff made to the quality I can now sew at P:
Currently I’m working on a few costumes for Auckland Armageddon (: I do want to go to Overload too, but I find getting time off work to be a pain P: (I work Fri and Sat nights). And then I also want to go overseas at the end of the year so I’d rather save my time off for then :P
Current Auckgeddon plans are looking to be:
Anemone - Eureka Seven
Christa - Attack on Titan
Miyoubi - Alichino (comp)
And something else probably I haven’t really decided on. I’ll work on these ones first and then decide. I’m currently making my Attack on Titan jacket which I will upload pics of when I get around to starting with the actual fabric.
And in the mean time I’ll add some pictures of the stuff I have made, hahaha (:
The start of Ion’s vest! (Trinity Blood). Hopefully it won’t take too long to complete, although I have to handsew on 2m or so of cording, so it probably will take ages ):
Now gonna take a break on Ion and start patterning Sakura’s veil, which I’ve been procrastinating with for ages.
Lia de Beaumont from Le Chevalier d’Eon cosplay!
Worn to Christchurch Armageddon Sunday 2012.
Tash and I won best in show with these cosplays (:
I’ll upload more photos once my photoshoot ones come through, haha.
I think this photo was taken by Vanessa, but I can’t remember |D